Sender Gauge is fine, used a test lamp and light goes off as after a few cranks, so will have to check my electrics. Also removed the sender and had oil pump out at a good presure.
Oil Pump is a Heavy Duty one by the was Brookie....as i have fairly long oil lines.
Tuned the Carbs so they run nice at idle, and sorted the timing etc...but still getting a fair bit of miss firing going on....although i do have the mixture a bit rich still so maybe because of this. Will get them tuned and sync'd properly once its up and going properly.
Getting a leak out of the Oil Filter when running at the mo, so either a fitment issue, or its stuggling to pump oil out of filter and to the cooler, maybe a gravity thing? Will investige over next few nights.
Closer and closer i get! _________________ Cheers
Mustard Man
Rich
'1972 Microbus'
'Its not the destination, but the journey that counts'
So....after sorting the leak, and doing a final check on everything, etc. Including a compression test - 135psi. Bit high but ok i was ready for the final run in and then all would be finished.
Started it up, coughed a bit and then it died, dead, nothing, just the click of the started motor.
Probs something horrendous has happened inside and seized everything.
Gutted! _________________ Cheers
Mustard Man
Rich
'1972 Microbus'
'Its not the destination, but the journey that counts'
Don't despair! Check your battery connections first off! Then if that doesn't fix it you must work out if it is fuel or electrics. Has to be one or the other!
Always expect teething troubles whenever you strip a motor down and completely rebuild it. This is normal! Keep cheerful and smiling. You'll get it fixed!
you have discovered a few big positives that are a must before starting a new engine.
1) you have some oil pressure which will almost instantly kill a new motor without it ie no oil = motor death.
2) your compression is 135psi and is the same as mine which is about 8:1 compression ratio. This shouldn't be too high that your motor over heats (unless your rings are not sealing properly or something. But lets be positive here).
You have some back firing which could be carby tune or it can be spark (either timing or ratic spark timing etc). This is just an idea of mine and might be worth checking ok? You have an electronic ignition install now which, yes, worked fine with your old motor. But you have changed the charging system ie now have an alternator and something wired on that side of things is a bit suss because of your oil and ignition lights staying on. So consider this for a moment. I had a Mallory electronic ignition in my bus for 2 years and then one day it stated to back firer and miss. In the days leading up to this I noticed at night my lights were glowing a lot brighter than normal which I only found out after, when my distributor was causing a back fire, that the regulator had failed and the alternator was overcharging. Hence lights glowing bright. But I also learned that electronic ignitions (specially the more expensive ones like a complete distributor change out type) are fairly voltage sensitive and if the voltage supply to it becomes too high or fairly low then the ignition starts to misfire and this can be to the point where the car just won't run.
So do you know where the regulator is for that new alternator that you've installed? Because I know someone has said to you it's an internal one inside the alternator. But I'm wondering if it has one at all and this could be just charging your battery to the full out put of the alternator. Hence, causing the whole miss & back fire problem as well as the ignition light staying on etc.
Anyway, I'd look into it further and see what you find.
Cheers
Phat bus
Last edited by Phat bus on Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
Just having a bit of time off from the Kombi, Became a bit of a chore if your with me. Will be back on it soon full of enthusiasm!
Matt, your right, there are lots of positives....i just need to do some investigation. Could be something as simple as the starter moter. Or maybe i'll need to pull the engine out again and have a tweek with the insides. No probs either way!
Will update when i get somewhere! _________________ Cheers
Mustard Man
Rich
'1972 Microbus'
'Its not the destination, but the journey that counts'
So....after sorting the leak, and doing a final check on everything, etc. Including a compression test - 135psi. Bit high but ok i was ready for the final run in and then all would be finished.
Started it up, coughed a bit and then it died, dead, nothing, just the click of the started motor.
Probs something horrendous has happened inside and seized everything.
Gutted!
Can it be turned by hand?
--------------------- _________________ Kombis Keep you Younger
Hey Mustard Steve is having the same problem with his motor at the mo
He gets the clicking and no turn over thing too. Might be your starter - Is it a newie? _________________
Taken at Alfreds in Guildford - Remember the meeting place is the 1st Wednesday of every month from 18:30
Clicking sound of the starter motor is fairly common when the battery voltage gets down too low. Try recharging the battery if it hasn't been charged just been sitting while you been doing the engine swap.
You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum
FAQ
Search
Memberlist
Usergroups
Join! (free) 
Profile
Log in to check your private messages
Log in
