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Midlifecrisis

Red Oil light comes on when engine warm and idling

OK I hope this post and the replies will help others with similar problem/s.

I have a 75/76 2L auto Kombi, called the Tardis.

It starts no problems but after driving it for about 15 minutes the red oil temp/pressure light flickers but only when you pull up at the lights and the engine is idling. If I put the gears in neutral, hence the revs increase a bit, the light goes out!

Now, the known issues with the Tardis which may be contributing to the problem:
I have low compression on no. 4 cylinder. All others are good.
I have an unusual noise when the engine is running, best described like an intermittent and singular soft knock, every now and then.
I have checked the wiring to the oil temp sensor and it is ok.
I have removed, cleaned and replaced the oil pressure relief valve which was moving freely in the casing.
Oil levels remain good.

Now, some mysteries...
1) I went to check the oil pressure "control" valve but can't find one? Both manuals I have say there should be one on 1970 and later models. John Muirs book says on Type IV and 1972 and later buses the extra pressure relief (control) valve is on the crankcase between the two pushrod tubes for number 1 cylinder. I can't find it there or anywhere?
2) The Tardis doesn't have a thermostat under the pushrod tubes to open and close the fan housing air flaps?? (I checked for ages today.) Do they sometimes get removed from Kombis in Australia so that the flaps stay open all the time to deliver as much air to the engine as possible, given our climate?

I realise after taking the Tardis to the mechanic that I may have a damaged/worn valve on number 4 cylinder. Does anyone think this could cause the intermittent flashing of the red oil light?

I know there are a number of issues raised here which may not be interrelated to casue my engine problem, but any comments and assistance would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers all
Brookie

Have you checked to see if connection to temp/pressure light is firmly connected.
What grade oil are you using?

Oil system information

http://www.moonrosedesigns.com/tunacannet/t4/tech/oil.htm

also from Ratwell

1.11 Removing Oil Pressure Switch:

You need a 24mm deep socket to remove the oil pressure switch on the Type 4 engine is the tin is in place. There is no torque spec on this part so do not overtighten it and strip the threads in the case.

If your switch has straight threads you need a copper gasket to help seal it. If it has tapered threads (like pipe thread) you don't.

-----------------------
Brookie

Oil selection from Ratwell

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/OilSelection.html

I have been using Penrite 20W/50 for ages in all cars.


-----------------------
shaihulud

I'd suggest that you find and clean out the oil pressure relief valves in the engine.

There is at least one and possibly two in your engine.

They are inside those big nuts that are under the engine block. Usually on the passenger side . One at the front and the other at the back.

Open them up and you will find a needle type valve and a spring.

Clean them thoroughly and then reassemble them.

That may help.
Midlifecrisis

Bad news

Well I've had a mechanic have a look at the Tardis and the engine problem is terminal!

The oil pressure is very low at idle hence the red light coming on and he thinks the main bearing has gone/worn. Also a noise at start up when cold tells him there is work to do on the big end.
AND no compression on number 4 cylinder so problems with the valve gear and new heads required.
Was quoted rough figure of around $4000 (more than I paid for the bus).

Now I have to decide.... rob a bank or look for a recon engine at a reasonable price.

It's all tears at the moment  Crying or Very sad
Brookie

Re: Bad news

Midlifecrisis wrote:
Well I've had a mechanic have a look at the Tardis and the engine problem is terminal!

The oil pressure is very low at idle hence the red light coming on and he thinks the main bearing has gone/worn. Also a noise at start up when cold tells him there is work to do on the big end.
AND no compression on number 4 cylinder so problems with the valve gear and new heads required.
Was quoted rough figure of around $4000 (more than I paid for the bus).

Now I have to decide.... rob a bank or look for a recon engine at a reasonable price.

It's all tears at the moment  Crying or Very sad


This may be of interest
http://thekombikonnection.myfreeforum.org/about2211.html

and perhaps you could talk to 66split (Dave) about building one out of two.

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Midlifecrisis

Engine rebuild

I have just seen the worlds biggest jigsaw puzzle!
The Tradis's engine has been removed and stripped down and it looks like one huge jigsaw puzzle to put it back together. I just hope my mechanic doesn't leave any pieces out.

The big end bearings are definately one of the main problems with the nice shiny coating worn in parts down to a coppery looking metal underneath and the comment "It's a good idea it didn't get any worse or else the whole bearing would have broken up!"

And the heads are US. I have just priced new 2L heads from a Volkswagen shop in Osborne Park at $562 each which I think is reasonable. So its rebuild time and time to gain a new appreciation for what makes a Kombi live.
Phat bus

Did your 2Ltr motor have a mechanical cam? Either way I bet it's flogged. I'd recommend a new one with a little more duration and lift ie 270degs and .420 to .430" lift. This cam is much the same as what was used in the 2 Ltr from factory when they installed them into the 914. Just add some solid rocker spacers for about $50 and you'll have a fair amount more torque than it ever had from factory. But still with all the reliability. You might be able to buy these direct from VForce in Sydney. ph (02) 9743 1247 and ask for Richard. He's built a few very strong Type 4 Kombi motors. Check out www.BeatleRacing.com
The K Factor

http://perth.gumtree.com.au/c-Car...ombi-engine-2L-W0QQAdIdZ135345026
Saw this ad on the net for a spare engine.  Not sure if it is still available as the ad was listed on 15/06/09. States that the engine was reconditioned 2 years ago and was running before being taken out. It's in Hamilton Hill. 0420 399 577
Midlifecrisis

The End Result - Rebuilt engine

Well that little red light problem led me to find that the Tardis was only firing on 3 cylinders and the engine bearings were shot.
So this has led to a rebuilt engine with new bearings throughout, the case being line bored, new barrels and pistons and new cylinder heads.
Now I am wearing in the new engine with running in oil and the Tardis has a whole new lease on life.

My son and I went off in the Tardis to Guilderton last week for a few days and this was the first real camping trip that I have been able to take in her since acquiring her in February. Fantastic!
Rod

Glad to hear all's well with Tardis!

Rod

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