DIY Spray Jobs

OberonViking · DIY Spray Jobs

I am looking to DIY spray paint a bay. I would like to hear how other people have managed this job, how much it cost, how long it took, how they did, what tips that they have. I'd like to learn from your experience.

I plan to pick up the odd bonnet or door from the tip to practice on - a full practice, rubbing back to metal, removing rust, straightening, priming, sanding, spraying, sanding, spraying, sanding, spraying, sanding, etc.

I also plan to have my bus stripped right down, doors and windows removed, interior resprayed as well. I would like a two tone - white from the windows up and blue or pink for the rest (wife and I are yet to agree). I would like a metalic paint.

Tips? Tricks? Ideas? Suggestions? Costs? Things to avoid?
This should become a very informative and well utilised discussion for anyone.

Brookie

There are some tips on various paint "how tos" in this section.
Preparation is the the most important and hardest part. Very Happy

I was also told by a professional restorer and VW expert( now retired unfortunately) that not to use 2 pacs or latest high tech paints on VW even if it is a bare metal repaint as original paints have penetrated metal and ventually , though it may take years, separation will occur.

I am sure there will be some experienced feedback on this and suggestions how to DIY.

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Guest

ok, bsics, dont spray out side, bugs will die n fall on your new paint. get plenty of practice. you want the gun set up at about 90psi, gun about 6-10 inche from pannel, over lap each pass by about 1/3rd. teh gun spray pattern needs to be a verticle line not horizontal, when doing pillars tip the gun on its side, never paint up n down! (unless youy alter the spray pattern)

always do a dry run first (with gun n air but no paint) this will blow any dust away and not on your new paint.

you can buy sealers that will allow any paint to be sprayed onto any other paint. you can also get elasticisers that allow the paint to bend n not crack, ideal for plastic bumpers etc.
buy the best paint you can afford- bunnings enamal won't do!!

5PL1TDC510N

Hi Viking,

Before you start anything you have to make sure you have all the tools needed for a decent job.
•First up you need a big tank compressor and a decent water trap gauge.
•Decent gravity gun(or a couple) with different tips. Primers use 1.8- 2.0 Paint- 1.5(metallics etc) and clear coats are around 1.3. Pressure is usually 30psi+ or -. I have an inline gauge and set the pressure to that rather than the gauge at the compressor.

• Good range of sanding blocks and papers

• pnuematic orbital sander- this will save you a load of time etc

This is a rough guide to paint:
Bare metal>rust convertor>epoxy etch primer
Body filler>Hi-build primer>primer>seam sealer>>
Paint>clearcoat>
wax

Im no expert but have painted a few cars already and am still learning...

Theres probably a million things more to add so email me if you need more info-Wayne:)

Piratekombi

I've just had an offer from a graphic artist to spray-paint my kombi for me, for free... she teaches at TAFE, and wants to do a "unique" artwork that she can submit into competitions. Needless to say, I jumped at the offer!

At this stage, we are thinking of painting Woger as a pirate ship, or something more original or abstract, but will work on ideas a bit before starting... and its not yet confirmed....

This, of course, leads into the thought - how far should I strip him back as preparation? I will obviously need to get any welding and rust removal done first.... but should I strip Woger back to bare metal, or just let her add another layer of paint? The latter would be quicker and easier, but the former would be the better long-term option....
(I think I already know the answer to this! - I am just not looking forward to having him off the road for so long....)

Brookie

If the paint can be rubbed back to a good base to take a primer that is the way I would -assuming there is no rust.
If you ever want to goback from graphics it is very hard to strip back again if it was a bare metal job. Been there done that,
Can't send you pics as away from home

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Piratekombi

Aaah, thanks Brookie! Smile

I might have to take some sections right back though, to check underneath... and there are some cracks in the "paint" on the lower back which I will also have to remove. I am expecting to find new rust spots... I already need metal replacement on the doglegs and under the right middle window.

I will also have to do a few coats of clear afterwards. I am not yet sure whether to do that myself, or pay a pro...