Best Oil and Fuel hose's

Mustard Man · Best Oil and Fuel hose's

Hi,

Ok, 2 interesting topics here for all that im sure will have lots of opionions.

1. I've a 1972 crossover bay (named mustard), type 1 engine, and living in perth.....so it gets warm.

Im struggling to find the best oil to use. Yes...this thread could last forever arguing the best oils......When i first got her i found she was dripping more oil that i wanted (think it was something like a 15/40 in there), so i changed to a thicker oil 25/60 due to the heat of the sumer etc. This seems to be ok, but after a 45min run at 80k the temperature gauge is up to 140. Who know how accurate the gauge is, but it gives me a rough gauge. There's lots of talk about oils on ratwell.com but im after info specific to the perth/OZ climate and other peoples experiances

So, what Oil do other people use here in perth? There's talk of the classic medium being good, or maybe a 25/50.....??

Thoughts please!!

2. Fuel hoses. I've a rubber hose at present, (in good nick) but i do have a metel hose that im thinking of using as a replacement. Anything to reduce the risk of fire. Anyone else done this, think its worth replacing?

Looking forward to hearing your responses.

Brookie

I would try a 20/50 during summer- original specif was 20/30 but oils have changed since then.
The best temp guage for a VW is the red light which will come on when oil is either too low or too hot.
If you can hold dipstick in hand even of you have to swap hands it is not too hot.
Do you have John Muirs Book?
If not you should get one.

You cannot have metal fuel lines all the way as they require flexibility as motor moves.
You should also make sure motor is clean- foam seal is in place as is all metal surrounds.

---------------------------------

Kinga

The fabric covered rubber hose is the best to use, without the fabric the hose will fail sooner (and a lot sooner than you think).

When the rubber fails inside the fabric covered ones it doesn't tend to spray around the motor, it generally just soaks up the hose and drips.

I would rather have that happen to a spray.

The fabric covered hose was also standard on a lot of Mercs too so is not hard to find if you ask around.

All the VW mechanics seem to have a roll.

I paid $11 per metre for some the other week.

The other thing to consider is that I am pretty sure the rubber hose (although it looks the same) is not quite the same size (someone might want to confirm this) and that causes premature failure to due to clamping etc.

Brookie

The later hoses are a poofteenth different in size to VW but there was a Chrysler Valiant hose exactly the same

-----------------------------------

Mustard Man

Thanks for the info.....

20/50.....alright, thanks, will that be suitable for the winter here too, or is it best to change to a lighter one?

Im working on sealing the engine bay. Few holes in the tinware here and there which im sorting out.

There's also a Oil radiator in the engine by which someone before has added. Won't this just increase the engine bay temp, even though it may cool the oil. Would it be better suited to placement on the underside?

Fuel line wise, its just a metal line for inside the engine bay, which will go back to standard hose after the filter. But im liking the fabric lined rubber one. Seems to make sence.

Oh, and i'll put photos of Mustard up on the new users area soon for all to see.

Brookie

Might be idea to post pics of oil radiator before you move it- some Kombis have dual batteries, air conditioning units etc and it does not seem to causr problems

-----------------------------

Mustard Man · Oil radiator

Wise man...see pics attached.

It may have been underneath originally, but got damaged? hence the dents......so was moved inside?

66split

the quality of fuel hose these days seems to be pretty poor! we used to use the fabric covered fuel hose in the uk but it needed changing regularly. i prefer the uncovered fuel hose as you can check the rubber for perishing, cracks etc. allthough the fuel hose i've purchased over here has swelled up and now needs replacing allready. so best bet would be to change it annually and keep an eye on the condition throughout the year what ever you go for. cheers, dave.

Kinga

I think it would be better to get the oil cooler out of the engine bay too.

It would certainly add to the heat inside and would also not really allow the oil to cool as well while it travels through the cooler.

Doing the right thing by sealing the engine bay too, it is often overlooked, but meant to be quite important.

Kinga

Phat bus

Get that Oil Cooler out side your engine bay as soon as you can. That is almost as bad as the after market oil cooler conversions people use to install across the fan intake on type 1 motors. Your thinking on the oil cooler heating the air being sucked into the motor is absolutely correct. All Air cooled VW oil coolers should be installed so the air leaving the oil cooler does not end up being sucked into the engine fan.
VDO oil temp gauges are usually fairly accurate (VDO cylinder heat temp gauges are not so accurate thou). Dip stick sender type work well but are annoying due the wires hanging of the end of the dip stick. Sump plug and sump plate location types are very good so long as your wiring to them is tidy and safe from melting on any hot parts of the motor etc. Insulation in the wire need the engine will go hard with the hot air temp around that part of the wiring so you may want to insulate it with a heat proof sleeving as used for oven wiring etc.
If your engine is still running hot you'll need to check the motor has all the original tinwear directing air around the cylinders within the the motor (many back yarders have left bigs out of VW's over the years think it was not needed = big mistake). There is an additional peice of tinwear under neither the cylinders of type 3 motors which helps to keep type 1 motors cooler when installed.

samblers