Alice
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Alice's new Kombi!It's in the yard now..I haven't seen it in daylight yet (I've been working). Smells terrible and bangs, pops, and sizzles in all the wrong places..but I still think it's awesome...here are what I am hoping to be the 'before' pictures...
The previous owner also gave us this box full of things for Woz to play with..
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Piratekombi
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Our internet is slow so Alice asked me to post some more pix
This is a shot of the interior...
It came with some stuff - some of it for other makes...
Wide tyres
Here is a shot of Alice's engine bay....
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Kinga
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Congratulations on the arrival of your new family member.
I made a coffee mug holder in year 8 woodwork that would match those cupboards a treat.
Unfortunately, I threw it out at least 20 years ago because I failed to foresee that it would ever come in handy for anything.
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Piratekombi
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That's the best bit!
Alice is a sweet romantic, and wants to make a sick kombi well again...
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Diddlie
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It will be fab, who get's priority - Wobert or Woger?
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Brookie
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Looks a good basis to start with -original roof rack and it goes- you will probably find some fresh fuel, plugs etc and it will be a lot better.
I would keep the timber cupboards as they look like they will come up well with a sand and refresh and have character.
Plenty of heater hoses for Woz to connect and have fun.
As you see the changes from when you start cleaning to really getting stuck in you know you are creating your own Kombi- have you decided on name yet?
Look forward to posts in How I Did It
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Piratekombi
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Well, Alice decided on a name change.... as we arrived to collect the (originally yellow) kombi, a full moon was rising, and a partial lunar eclipse occured later in the evening - so Alice has settled on Luna! (although we still haven't done the christening ceremony...)
We are actually still debating the priorities.... Alice wants to get Luna on the road ASAP, but I would rather do a good job than rush it. There are also a few little things on Woger that need to be looked at first - but I suspect Luna will otherwise get the higher priority. Once Luna is re-registered, though, then the focus will be entirely on Woger.
We will be keeping a comprehensive record of everything we do (with Woger, I was reluctant to take pix of the bad bits...) The cupboards are much better looking than the ugly-but-practical things in Woger...
Luna actually started reasonably easily today, and Alice proudly drove her around the back... What a racket!
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Piratekombi
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The hatch is bogged through so it will be easiest to replace it... Alice wants me to remove the roof-rack, I will probably repaint it and use it with Woger when we go on trips (I'd guess the Sierp Brothers would use a Sopru rack?)
The poptop needs work - inside and out; canvas and mechanisms... so we will probably also replace it.
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Brookie
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Roof rack is identcal to Sopru but I would take the floor off.
It creates understeer and they should always just be loaded on frame.
We did a test on this around 8-9 years ago.
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Diddlie
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Brilliant name Alice, Luna always reminds me of the space programme that starred Patsy Kensit as a teenager (that was the name of the show). I must have been about 8 or 9 at the time
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Alice
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I'm not sure how I'm going to paint it yet though...I want Woz to fix up the engine first and get it roadworthy..
Woz polished the hubcabs...now it is starting to sparkle like a luna effect.
I dont' like the roof rack so i'm giving that to Woger the now jealous lowlight
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heretic
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[quote="Piratekombi"]
We are actually still debating the priorities.... Alice wants to get Luna on the road ASAP, but I would rather do a good job
[/quote]
ASAP??
Was that . "I expect it done by thursday next week" ASAP.?
Warning. Dont expect it soon .
You,ve got a bit of work there.
Definately lose the roofrack.
Random orbital sander and 4" grinder are going to get a workout.
Have fun.
cheers
col
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Piratekombi
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"ASAP" means "it is not to sit there forever not getting fixed..." Alice's current target for getting it on the road is next Easter - but she hopes it will be sooner. We are realistic though - it took us months to get Woger into a passable state, and he still needs a lot more work. This one will take more effort....
We will definitely be emphasising the mechanicals first.... the discs/drums will need to be replaced, and the engine has some issues... we will need to replace all leads, tubes, plugs and points, seals etc etc ... the poptop is stuffed, and there are a couple of areas of bog... and no doubt we will find many more jobs as we go.... it will obviously take a bit of work, so the pretty paintjob Alice (eventually) intends for will have to wait. It won't stop her planning, though - we were even thinking about spraying a clear coat over the paintjob to make registration easier....
We are keeping a list of all the parts we will need to order... a 4" grinder is now added to the list!
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Brookie
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Is it rego'ed now or just need RWC?
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Piratekombi
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It is currently registered, but we won't be able to get a RWC immediately (required for transfer) so will let the rego lapse... to get a new registration takes hardly any more effort anyway (we did it with Woger) - it just requires an additional Vicroads inspection which involves the payment of a fee and an inspection of the chassis and engine numbers.
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Piratekombi
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A quick update....
Well, the rock 'n' roll bed goes up - I still haven't worked out how to make it go back down... and we removed that roofrack, which is an improvement. We are now gathering a lengthening list of things we need to replace. Engine sounds better every day (and deeper than Woger), it might not be as sick as we initially thought. I wanted to pinch the 225/65 wheels for Woger, but Alice has now decided she likes them...
Alice also cleaned the engine - now to find the oil leak!
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Brookie
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If it is original "proper" bed try and feel for a little metal "tag' at hinges and hold them while you open/close bed. You just stand in front with arm on each side
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Alice
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Finally visited Supercheap and bunnings today to get things like compression testers, timing lights, WD40 (my favourite tool), and other bits and pieces.
I cleaned underneath the engine (that was a long dirty process as shown in the previous photo) to find where to oil leak is coming from.
I'm pretty sure it is coming from above the oil filter...and there is a lot of it...I turned the engine over for about a minute and you could see the oil dripping out.
Then I checked the oil level and found the oil was frothy. So I was wondering if anyone could help me with three questions?
What is the best and worst case cause for the oil dripping?
Why is the oil frothy?
And is it dangerous that I'm turning the engine over every couple of days?
Woz reckons the oil filter and oil will have to be replaced....but could there be worse?
He's a pic of my frothy oil
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Brookie
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It will probably be worth taking off oil filter and see if someone has put it on with two seals. Quite often people change oil filter and when they remove old one they don't remove old seal.There is NO way that will ever seal.
You can do that without losing oil though it would be better to change oil anyway.
If there is two seals and you may need to use your finger and feel that an old one is not stuck there.
You will also see if your oil is clean -the frothy may be condensation if it has been standing a long time.
Tuning motor over won't hurt as it already runs -oil-filter-plugs-points and it may run like new-don't forget tappets.
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Alice
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Thanks heaps...that makes me feel a lot better...that fits with what the previous owner said too...the kombi wasn't started or driven for a long time.
The tappets will be done soon, I just haven't got a valve cover gaskets yet... Today I bought a timing light but don't yet have dwell metre.
I went to buy spark plugs but forgot to write down the type, and Bosch catalogue in Supercheap didn't even mention kombis (or beetles).
I'm glad that it isn't too big a problem
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Phat bus
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If going for Bosch, try W7CC or W8CC. One of these was the wrong temp range for my motor but shouldn't be a prob for yours.
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Kinga
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| Alice wrote: | | What is the best and worst case cause for the oil dripping? |
I agree, it sounds like your oil filter isn't sealing properly.
Another common leak is the oil cooler seals, very common, just takes a while to get at it to fix.
When those seals go the leak is concealed below the tin ware and you often don't see it until it runs down and leaks out somewhere underneath like around the push rod tubes or bottom of the head.
It's above the oil filter so it could probably end up there too.
| Alice wrote: | | Why is the oil frothy? |
Usually when it mixes with water or some other foreign fluid (some additives can go bad after a while)
| Alice wrote: | | Woz reckons the oil filter and oil will have to be replaced....but could there be worse? |
If you had a water cooled car I would say you had big trouble because it would be water mixing with oil ie blown head gasket.
But there isn't any water in a dub motor so the separation is probably oil and some form of condensate.
So I agree that it sounds like it has sat for a while.
Time for an oil and filter change.
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Alice
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Thanks for the advice...I didn't have time to get a new oil filter today..but I read the section in John Muir...I turn it by hand and replace it..
I assume I can get the filters from the usual automotive stores?
What I did do was try to take one of the front wheels off to check the brakes..I had a little help..
So we jacked up the kombi...then down (when we couldn't loosen the wheels nuts)...then up again...then down again (as Woz muttered dark words about rattle guns)...then we realised we could check the discs without taking the wheels off
One disc was 1.1cm thick..the other was .75
We fixed the horn...at least we fixed something!
Well I have some more questions...I hope you don't mind...
Can I get oil filters from normal automotive shops?
Is there a bigger problem that has caused one brake to wear quicker? or is it because only one was replaced at some point?
Do tubelines size get measured by the inner diameter or the outer?
And what's this...and why when I look at Woz's kombi it doesn't have a wire. What's the wire for? the oil temperature guage?
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Brookie
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First I must comment on the fact that a mechanic wearing JAG- quality gear for quality Kombi.
Make sure you buy a top quality oil filter-preferably German.
The wire is temp sending wire.
The brakes have probably be done as you suspect- it always pays to have discs and pads well balanced.
Check if piston moves equally in each caliper when you do brakes- every everything must be clean.
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Piratekombi
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Hey, I was that "mechanic" - and it was not JAG...!!!
And I see she keeps seeking second opinions... hmmmm... ?
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Kinga
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| Piratekombi wrote: | And I see she keeps seeking second opinions... hmmmm... ?  |
What else goes on behind your back, maybe she has her eyes on Wodger for some spare parts
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heretic
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Probably do a couple of oil changes with a average priced oil and a flush product that is added to the oil just before you change it to clean things out.
Read the label. I like Nulon engine oil flush. Warm engine . Then add oil flush to oil.
Idle [Dont drive] for reccomended period[usually 10-20 min] and drain oil.
Change filter and clean oil strainer mesh, then refit sump plug n refill oil.
If you were driving around ,I'd give it 600 km then repeat. But maybe once is ok till you are on the road. Otherwise idle n gently rev for 1/2 hr then repeat the oil change.
This is to clean out the crud in the engine.
There is bound yo be lumpy bits in the oil strainer. Dont worry. This is what you are getting rid of as well as the froth which I agree is most probably moisture and definately needs to be got rid of.
The lumpy bits should crush between your fingers. If you have a lot of metal this may be a problem ,but unlikely as you havent mentioned horrible noises in engine.
Might make it run a bit better as well and is necessary to start the process of sorting the engine.
Once on the road you may want to start using a better oil and will not need to use oil flush
Usually pays to start with the basics first like you are doing
Ie plugs,oil tappets,timing,points and condenser,check operation of dissy and put a bit of lite oil on the cotton pad on the shaft inside the dissy. It helps with lubrication further down and most people ignore it. Good worK guys
cheers
col
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Brookie
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Reading Col's post reminded me of old cleaning style. Actually 2!
1.When you drain oil and it's all out put plug back in -only finger tight and pour in about a litre of fresh oil- cheapy stuff will do- the leave for little while and drain again.
2. Same trick but use diesel- leave for about an hour- then drain- another half litre of oil will clean diesel out. It won't hurt anyway.
You put kerosene in every time you use an additive
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heretic
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Agree Brookie
Ex father in law was responsible for waranty etc Vic and part south A GMH. Old school /proper mechanical engineer He used similar with 1/2 oil 1/2 diesel. Bout 20 min / no load.[on old EH s etc Recon'd it got a few lifters working again.]
Ive got a few engines running well with this. To those who havent mucked with engines much , Makes sense when you nsee how much varnish can build up on parts that are meant to move with minimal clearance.
Although not a big fan of additives[ always use with caution unless you KNOW what to expect] I have had great improvements in smoothness, and fuel economy using Pro-Mar. Bit like the old Molybond.
col
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Brookie
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You probably know how to do a quick de-coke with brake fluid
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heretic
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Would have used diesel or redex. Not real environmentally sound but great in a built up neighbourhood. Ha Ha
Brake fluid sounds interesting.
Whats your take on diesel/oil mix.
I was going to add that it should be done with caution and preferably by someone who has some experience as its possible that the lubrication is serverly affected and one should not over do it . Best keep an ear to what things sound like while its happening.
col
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Piratekombi
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so I rubbed the paint back a little. Other than a thin layer of bog, everything looked fine. I'll just level the surface out a bit with some filler, once I can find somewhere that sells it in 25 litre tins.
... okay, that's a joke - it isn't really Alice's kombi!
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Alice
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Thanks for the advice...I'm buying the diesel this arvo..and tomorrow afternoon I'm going to get very messy with oil...sounds like fun!!!!
I brought tools and materials to line the door cards too...but...I think I should probably get it going before I do that.
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BJ
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Alice leave the pretty things 'til last Get the old girl safe first....
I know you just want her to look pretty though
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Alice
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| heretic wrote: |
Bout 20 min / no load.[on old EH s etc Recon'd it got a few lifters working again.]
col |
No load?? During this process of flushing am I meant to have the engine running? When do I turn it on and off?
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Brookie
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| Alice wrote: | | heretic wrote: |
Bout 20 min / no load.[on old EH s etc Recon'd it got a few lifters working again.]
col |
No load?? During this process of flushing am I meant to have the engine running? When do I turn it on and off? |
I don't have engine running normally- just let it soak and then drain.
Couple of times and you will see it coming cleaner.
If you run engine just let it tick over gently to circulate oil/diesel and then drain
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Alice
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Ohh that's good...I thought leaving the engine on sounded dangerous...
Thanks brookie..I'm off now to get a few bits and pieces and then I'm going to work all day on cleaning and fiddling in the engine. I'll use our brand new compression tester and timing light
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Brookie
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Think this may have to be moved to "How I Did It"
May have to break that Forum up by gender
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Alice
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Good idea...I've started a 'How I did it' thread...hope it helps others like me
http://thekombikonnection.myfreef...org/about1647.html&highlight=
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heretic
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With the diesel mix I would suggest caution re running engine. Do it as Brookie says.
If using an oil flush like nulon, follow instructions on bottle which will be something like , warm engine first then add flush to old oil already in engine. Restart engine and Idle engine for 10 -20 minutes. Pretty safe stuff and wont stuff the lubricating properties of the oil too much but dont drive it or rev it . [ie putting a load on the engine]
Re the bog post a couple back.
20 kg pails of pre mixed plaster for wallboard should do the job. Nice and easy to sand.
Before you cut the ply sheets for the door cards tape a sheet along the van and pour the plaster in the top. Bit like moulding a body on a corvette. Ha Ha.
cheers
col
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Dingo
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How'd you go with the cleanout job?
I have had good success just lifting the kombi upside down, and giving it a shake. You have to be careful about removing ash from the ashtray though, otherwise it can make your kombi smell.
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Piratekombi
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We would have done that, but the poptop is just held on by string....
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