Posted: Mon Jul 28, 2008 11:41 am Post subject: 71' rebuild
I posted before that i'd picked up a lowlight primarily as a transport vehicle for Matador parts.
Things have changed a little.
I knew it had at least one stuffed head, the one i'd helicoiled at billabong road house. i'd also suspected that the other side had gone also, as a plug suspisciously popped out of that side as well. So I pulled down the old motor and found it to be a largely stock 1600, and pretty long in the tooth.
I was looking at rebuilding the motor with a bit more power for pulling Matador parts/shells up the hill to where it stays. I was going to make a 1915, with bigish valves. I did the math with Aussie parts suppliers and was adding up.
I started looking in the US for parts and came across this in the samba.
Watch out for those ford rims. The stud patern is not exactly the same as the 112mm kombi / merc / audi patern.
Mallory dissy's are great if it's one of the Unilite ones. I have one myself and it makes a big difference.
Deep sumps don't make that much of an improvement to oil cooling. An external oil cooler has a better improvement on controlling oil temp.
Once you install that motor you will possibly be needing a taller ratio gearbox too. A shorter stroke (closer to standard) might be a better option if your sticking with the standard gearbox ratio.
I was only testing tyre size, the rims will be 5 x 112 (though a 42 offset) when they are ready. I was seeing how much they'd rub being 235's.
I'm pretty sure i'll fit 225/45/17's if i have a 17x7 rims i may have to use 5mm spacers, but I'll wait till i test fit them first and see what works.
I've never had a Mallory before, i don't know which one this is. I'll have to look it up. I'll get some photos when i get a chance.
I'm going to hook up a temp gauge also, i thought it was mostly the extra oil volume that made the external coolers work well. Either way i'm putting a gauge on it, if it gets hot i'll pop an external cooler on it.
It did arrive today though
and it looks fantastic, I need to get my tinware back and we can stick it in.
Typically the headers seem to be welded up by someone from the Active foundation, the holes don't seem to line up with the studs no matter how much you twist and pull on everything.
I've also started on the upholstery. I've reupholstered a few couches in my time but this is the first time i've tried auto seats. I'm currently doing a practice one and it's coming together OK.
I'm going to bug the powdercoater tommorrow and look around for new CV boots while they are easily accessable.
Wow on first glance I just assumed the purple cover was part of your sewing chair, lovely and great colour. _________________ Di
Kombi Karma - you know it makes sense
www.klaus1.bigblog.com.au
76 8 seater poptop, resto'd in a fashion
The seat is coming along well, I'm having trouble getting the piping tight enough, but i think it'll come with practice.
It's another job for the old industrial sewing machine my parents found at a garage sale for me for a measly $10. It goes off by itself on occasion, which is pretty dangerous, but has been behaving itself lately.
I think the stroke vs. bore will be a pretty good combination- if it was a beetle motor i'd be happier winding it a bit higher but this way it'll push the bus along well and stay reliable.
I'm also keeping the rolling diameter of the tyre very similar to original- so the box should be pretty good. If I was putting low 15's or 16's it'd be a bit of a different matter. If i find it annoying I can change it later.
My rims are 15 x 8" on the rear with 225x60 tyre. This is very, very tight clearances but has never rubbed on the trailing arm or outer guard. On the front mine are 15 x 7" with 215x60's. The taller rear tyre helps lower the revs a little of my longer stroke motor. So 225 on the rear is the widest possible that I know of.
Extra oil in the sump just means longer warm up basically. The oil cooler can still only displace the same heat. The fins on the extended sump may help just a little but nothing really great.
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